While driving out to the transect on our last day of
water sampling, I looked west and rain showered from an ominous cloud covering
the sky. It seemed as though we would be spending the day drenched in a
combination of fresh and saltwater. As we moved further from land and closer to
the northwest barrier reef that surrounds the lagoon, the gray cloud began to
dissipate, the ocean glassed over with silky blue perfection and I was reminded
of how unpredictable the weather could be in Palau. The reflection of the sky
on the ocean surface was so clear that the boundary between water and sky was
indiscernible. This was not the first time during my trip that the beauty of
Palau had rendered me speechless and I found myself reflecting on the past
three weeks.
When Katie invited me to help with her research in
Palau, I was ecstatic! Katie’s recent publication (Shamberger et al. 2014) was
the first to report visually healthy and diverse coral communities in a
naturally acidified system and had thus gained much interest, both in the media
and scientific community. As oceanographers we ask ourselves, “How are these
corals seemingly able to thrive at low pH and aragonite saturation levels and
what does this mean for future corals in an ocean acidification (OA) world?” I was excited for the
opportunity to assist in this timely and crucial research and over the next few
weeks saw the amount of planning and work that goes into tackling such
difficult questions. It took perseverance and dedication to spend long hours on
the boat, often in harsh conditions, in order to collect the samples that would
hopefully lead to answers about the health of these reefs.
In addition to conducting OA work, I had a chance to
observe the interactions between Palauans and their environment. As a native
Hawaiian, I am acutely aware of the intricate link between ecosystem and
cultural health and the parallels between our cultures fascinated me. I
observed many similarities between fishing methods, traditional uses for
plants, and navigation techniques. Our coxswain, Gary, was a native to Palau
and I was in awe of his intuition related to navigation and the weather. It was
not unusual for Katie and I to be fiddling with the GPS, completely unaware
that Gary had already placed us at our sampling site. I also depended on Gary
for the daily weather forecast, as he was much more reliable than the forecast
conditions provided by professional meteorological websites. All he seemed to
do was take a quick look at the movement of the clouds and direction of the
swell. On one particular day, a storm came through that covered the entire sky
with clouds. For a minute Gary seemed disoriented, for he had clearly been
using coral heads and landmarks from the distant islands to locate our
instruments. Our GPS couldn’t detect a signal but thankfully Gary was able to
position us once he had identified his rocks. This experience reminded me about
the importance of integrating traditional and western science, for one
compliments the other.
Near
the end of our trip, I had a chance to visit Jellyfish Lake, a marine lake
formed by the rise and fall of sea level over geologic history. The lake
contains millions of jellyfish that have adapted to the new conditions and
essentially lost the severity of their nematocysts (stinging cells). As we swam
toward the middle of the lake, we were engulfed by a swarm of jellyfish so
thick that we had to gently brush them aside. It was one of the most surreal
moments of my life. At one point, Tom and I broke into hysterical fits of
laughter. Not only had I realized the absurdity of floating amongst thousands
of jellyfish, but in that moment a hopeful thought had crept into my mind; if
these jellyfish could find a way to adapt and thrive to the current conditions
of the lake, perhaps coral reefs of the world could find a way to maintain
under the harsh conditions presented by global climate change. Biology is a
miraculous wonder. One thing is for sure, with the dedication and knowledge of
the Cohen lab, I have hope that the beautiful coral reefs of Palau will still
be around for our future generations to enjoy. - Andrea Kealoha